Vivianna Tôrún Bülow-Hübe

A Pioneering Silversmith

Vivian Tôrún Bülow-Hübe was a celebrated Swedish silversmith and jewelry designer known for her minimalist and modernist approach. Her work, characterized by clean lines, functional aesthetics, and innovative use of materials, remains iconic in contemporary jewelry. As the first woman to establish herself as a professional silversmith in Sweden, Tôrún broke barriers in a traditionally male-dominated craft, symbolizing creativity and independence.

Tôrún grew up in a progressive environment that nurtured her artistic inclinations. Her parents encouraged her to pursue creative interests, and after finishing school, she studied silversmithing at the prestigious Konstfack (University of Arts, Crafts, and Design) in Stockholm. She further honed her skills in Paris, where she absorbed influences from modern art movements and formed connections with leading artists of the time, including Picasso and Matisse. These interactions shaped her philosophy that jewelry should not merely decorate but enhance the wearer’s individuality.

Tôrún’s design ethos is centred on simplicity and functionality. She eschewed ornate embellishments, favouring flowing, organic forms that celebrated the inherent beauty of materials like silver and gemstones. Her designs often incorporated unconventional materials such as leather, steel, and pebbles, reflecting her belief in the harmony between the natural and the industrial. One of her most famous pieces, the Möbius bangle, exemplifies her ability to fuse mathematical elegance with wearable art.

Her career significantly turned in the 1960s when she collaborated with the Danish luxury brand Georg Jensen. Tôrún became the first female designer in the company’s history, and her collections brought a fresh, contemporary vision to the brand. Her iconic work for Georg Jensen includes pieces like the Vivianna Bangle Watch, a timeless design without a clasp that symbolizes freedom from traditional constraints.

Tôrún’s designs gained international acclaim, earning her numerous awards, including the Lunning Prize in 1962, which recognized her as a leading Scandinavian designer. Her work is displayed in major museums worldwide, including the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

Beyond her artistic achievements, Tôrún was deeply philosophical. She viewed jewelry as a medium for self-expression rather than a status symbol. Her designs aimed to empower the wearer, fostering a sense of identity and freedom.

Vivian Tôrún Bülow-Hübe’s legacy endures as a testament to her innovative spirit and commitment to elevating silversmithing into an art form. Her timeless creations inspire and resonate with those who value understated elegance and profound craftsmanship.